Yamaha Cross Chop Paintjob Part Two-and-a-half

Hey hey hey kids!

It's time for another episode of: Yamaha Cross Cho Paintjob!
Last time we left when the tins were all filled and sanded. This time, we will put on some sparkly Kolor.

First, I put the parts on stands that are on eye level. The parts can be turned around 360 degrees so I can easily reach all sides without having to walk too much. I taped off the filler neck and the underside of the tank and fender, because I don't want any flakes or paint on them.
After this, I make sure that the circumstances are right for painting. I have a small wheather station (they are quite cheap) so I can watch the temperature and humidity. Very important when you paint! Even if you can't control the temperature, it's worth while recording it, so when you are painting at 17 degrees, you know you have to wait longer between layers than when it's 22.

This is actually a very important step when you want to control the quality of your paintwork. "Watching paint dry"is a nice saying but modern paint are complex polymers that react with each other. They do that better at certain temperatures. It's a cosy 22 degrees, that's perfect.

Next, I check the air pressure at my reducer. It's a steady 2.0 bar. Be sure to check this while the air is flowing out of your gun (with the trigger pulled open). Pressure at the gun will be slightly lower because of the long air line to the gun.
Now, I mix up a sealer, to make sure no chemicals from the fillers bleed through into the new paint. It also makes a nice even kolor so you won't see any light and dark spots through the gold.
Two coats do the job.

I went to my automotive paint store and selected a nice gold metallic out of their thousands of paint samples. It turns out to be a Suzuki kolor...
Always strain the paint before you fill your paint gun! You will be saying very bad things when your gun blocks up or spits because some dried paint particle fell into your paint cup!
The kolor looks great and really shows the curves of the tank and fender. I sprayed two coats to get a nice, even coverage.

Next, I mix up some two part clear and add Metlaflake Micro silver flake. Slightly smaller than the ones I normally use, they will show off the curves of the tins very nicely.
It takes a few layers to get the coverage I want. After the first layer, it looks like this:

Then I spray 3 more and I am happy with the final result.

Next, I mix some Metalflake Candy Concentrate CC4 (yellow) into some two part clear lear and spray 3 layers, to get a nice warm yellow. Here's the end result, I am golden.

Next time, I will be painting the black rays with white outlines. Until then: aye-to.